Using the lippert 6 point leveling system manual operation is a total lifesaver when your RV's sensors decide to get a little confused by a sloped campsite. We've all been there: you pull into a gorgeous spot, you're ready to crack a cold drink, and you hit "Auto Level" only to have the system groan, shake, and then spit out an "Out of Stroke" error or leave your front tires dangling in the air. It's frustrating, but honestly, knowing how to take the reins yourself makes the whole process way less stressful.
Most people rely on the computer to do the heavy lifting, but the truth is, the computer isn't always as smart as you are. It can't see the terrain, and it doesn't know you've got extra wood blocks under the jacks. That's why getting comfortable with manual mode is a must for any fifth-wheel owner.
Why You'd Even Want to Go Manual
You might wonder why anyone would bother with manual mode if the "Auto Level" button exists. Well, sometimes the ground is just too uneven for the sensors to handle. The system has a specific "stroke" or reach, and if it thinks it can't get the rig level within those parameters, it'll just quit on you.
Another reason is stability. Sometimes the auto-level gets the coach level, but it does so by extending the jacks way further than necessary, which makes the whole RV feel a bit bouncy when you walk around inside. By using the lippert 6 point leveling system manual operation, you can keep the jacks lower to the ground, use your blocks more effectively, and get a much more solid foundation. Plus, if a sensor gets dusty or tilted, manual mode is the only way you're going to get that rig level without calling a mobile mechanic.
Getting Into Manual Mode on the Touchpad
First things first, you've got to find the menu. Most Lippert (LCI) systems have that standard LCD touchpad. If it's asleep, just hit any button to wake it up. You'll usually see the battery voltage or "Ready" on the screen.
To get into the manual side of things, you'll use the arrow keys (usually the down arrow) to scroll through the options. You're looking for "Manual Mode." Once you see it, hit "Enter." You'll know you're in the right spot because the screen will usually change to show you the current angle of the coach, and the little lights next to the buttons might start blinking.
Once you're in, the buttons change their behavior. Instead of one-touch commands, they become "hold to run" buttons. This is where you get the control. You can move the front, back, or sides independently. It feels a bit like playing a slow-motion video game, but it's the best way to ensure your frame isn't being twisted or stressed.
The Step-by-Step Manual Process
When you're doing this yourself, there's a specific rhythm you should follow so you don't put too much torque on your RV's frame. You don't want to just start jamming buttons.
1. The Front Jacks First
If you've just unhooked from the truck, your front jacks (the landing gear) are already down. Use the "Front" button to adjust the height so you're roughly level front-to-back. Don't worry about being perfect yet; just get it close. This is usually the easiest part because you've done it a hundred times while hitching and unhitching.
2. Dropping the Rear Jacks
Next, you'll want to bring down the rear jacks. On a 6-point system, the "Rear" button usually controls both the very back jacks and the middle stabilizer jacks. Hold the "Rear" button down until they make firm contact with the ground or your blocks. A good rule of thumb is to listen to the sound of the motor—when the pitch changes and sounds a bit deeper, they've made contact.
3. Side-to-Side Leveling
This is where people usually get a little nervous. Check your levels (either on the screen or with a physical carpenter's level on the floor). If the left side is low, hold the "Left" button. This will move the left-front and left-rear jacks together. Doing it this way prevents the frame from twisting. Never try to move just one corner jack at a time if you can avoid it; the 6-point system is designed to work in pairs to protect your chassis.
4. The Middle Jacks
In most manual modes, the middle jacks are the last to play their part. They act as stabilizers. Once the front and rear are level and the side-to-side is dialed in, you might need to hit the "Rear" button one more time or a specific "Stabilize" command to ensure those middle legs are snug against the ground. They don't lift the coach; they just stop it from shaking when you're walking to the fridge at 2 AM.
What If the Power Fails? (Mechanical Manual Override)
Now, let's talk about the real manual operation. What happens if your battery is dead, or the touchpad literally fries itself? This is the "emergency" version of lippert 6 point leveling system manual operation. It's not fun, but it's definitely doable.
Each of those hydraulic jacks (or electric motors, depending on your specific model) has a way to be moved by hand. For the hydraulic versions, you'll need to head to the hydraulic pump. There's usually a plastic cap you can pop off the end of the motor. Underneath, there's a hex-head screw.
You'll need a power drill with a specific hex bit (usually 1/4") and a way to open the valves. On the valve manifold, there are little silver valves with a hex or flathead slot. You have to manually open the valve for the jack you want to move, then use your drill to spin the motor. Spin it one way to extend, the other way to retract. It's slow, and it's a bit of a workout for your drill, but it'll get you out of a jam every single time.
A Few Things to Watch Out For
While manual mode gives you all the power, it also gives you the power to mess things up if you aren't careful.
- Don't lift the wheels: It's tempting to keep going until the screen says "0.0," but if your tires are hanging in the air, you're in a dangerous spot. The jacks are for leveling, not for being a car lift. If you're that far off, you need more blocks under the tires first.
- Watch the frame flex: If you notice your entry door is sticking or won't latch properly after you've leveled, you've probably twisted the frame a bit. Back off the jacks, "Zero" things out, and try again, being more careful to move the jacks in pairs (Left/Right/Front/Rear).
- Check your clearance: Before you start lowering the front to level it out, make sure there isn't a cooler, a bike, or a stray dog under the back of the rig. When the front goes down, the back goes up, and vice versa.
Wrapping It All Up
At the end of the day, the lippert 6 point leveling system manual operation isn't nearly as intimidating as it looks. It's just about taking control of the hydraulics instead of letting a computer chip make the decisions. Once you do it a couple of times, you might actually find that you prefer it. It's often faster than the "Auto Level" dance, which involves a lot of clicking, pausing, and thinking.
Plus, there's a certain satisfaction in knowing your rig is perfectly stable because you put it there. So, next time you're at a site and the "Auto Level" starts acting like it's had too much coffee, don't panic. Just toggle over to manual mode, take a breath, and level it yourself. You've got this!